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J Cosmet Med 2023; 7(1): 1-5

Published online June 30, 2023

https://doi.org/10.25056/JCM.2023.7.1.1

Review of chemical peeling in photoaging skin

Cheuk Hung Lee, MBBS (HK), FHKAM (MED), FHKCP, MScPD (Cardiff), MRCP (UK), DPD (Wales), DipDerm (Glasgow), PGDipClinDerm (London), MRCP (London), GradDipDerm (NUS), DipMed (CUHK)1 , Kar Wai Alvin Lee, MBChB (CUHK), DCH (Sydney), Dip Derm (Glasgow), MScClinDerm (Cardiff), MScPD (Cardiff), DipMed (CUHK), DCH (Sydney)1 , Lisa Kwin Wah Chan, MBChB (CUHK), MScPD (Cardiff), PgDipPD (Cardiff), PGDipClinDerm (Lond), DipMed (CUHK), DCH (Sydney)1 , Kar Fai Victor Lee, MBBS (UCL, University of London), MRCP (UK), FRCP (Glasgow), FHKCP, FHKAM (Medicine)2

1Ever Keen Medical Centre, Hong Kong
2London Heart Practice, Hong Kong

Correspondence to :
Lisa Kwin Wah Chan
E-mail: lisa827@gmail.com

Received: February 10, 2023; Revised: March 16, 2023; Accepted: April 16, 2023

© Korean Society of Korean Cosmetic Surgery & Medicine

This is an Open Access article distributed under the terms of the Creative Commons Attribution Non-Commercial License (http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc/4.0), which permits unrestricted non-commercial use, distribution, and reproduction in any medium, provided the original work is properly cited.

Photoaging is a process in which ultraviolet radiation damages the normal skin architecture. Topical chemical peeling is used to treat this condition. The authors aimed to understand the mechanism and level of evidence of the different depths of chemical peeling used to treat photoaging. Various topical chemical peelings have been used in cosmetic medicine for many years to treat photodamaged skin. This review compares the efficacy and the level of evidence. This systematic review evaluates the efficacy of different chemical peeling methods. Keywords included “Photoaging,” “Alpha-hydroxy acid,” “Lipo-hydroxy acid,” “Trichloroacetic acid,” “Jessner’s solution,” and “Phenol” were typed on Ovid, PubMed, MEDLINE for relevant studies published on photoaging treatment. There is a wealth of Level I evidence supporting the use of topical retinoic acid, vitamin B, and vitamin C. The evidence behind the use of topical vitamin E exists but is mainly drawn from studies from the Level IV of the evidence hierarchy. Topical vitamins can effectively treat photodamaged skin.

Keywords: hydroxy acids, lactic acid, phenol, salicylic acid, skin aging, trichloroacetic acid

Fig. 1.Evidence hierarchy according to Oxford Center for Evidence-Based Medicine [5]. RCT, randomized controlled trials; SR, systematic review.
  1. Weissler JM, Carney MJ, Carreras Tartak JA, Bensimon RH, Percec I. The evolution of chemical peeling and modern-day applications. Plast Reconstr Surg 2017;140:920-9.
    Pubmed CrossRef
  2. Borelli C, Ursin F, Steger F. The rise of chemical peeling in 19th-century European dermatology: emergence of agents, formulations and treatments. J Eur Acad Dermatol Venereol 2020;34:1890-9.
    Pubmed CrossRef
  3. Eller JJ, Wolff S. Skin peeling and scarification: in the treatment of pitted scars, pigmentations and certain facial blemishes. JAMA 1941;116:934-8.
    CrossRef
  4. Kligman AM, Baker TJ, Gordon HL. Long-term histologic follow-up of phenol face peels. Plast Reconstr Surg 1985;75:652-9.
    Pubmed CrossRef
  5. Centre for Evidence-Based Medicine. Oxford centre for evidence-based medicine: levels of evidence (March 2009) [Internet]. Oxford: University of Oxford; c2009 [cited 2023 Feb 5].
    Available from: https://www.cebm.ox.ac.uk/resources/levelsof-evidence/oxford-centre-for-evidence-based-medicinelevels-of-evidence-march-2009
  6. Ditre CM, Griffin TD, Murphy GF, Sueki H, Telegan B, Johnson WC, et al. Effects of alpha-hydroxy acids on photoaged skin: a pilot clinical, histologic, and ultrastructural study. J Am Acad Dermatol 1996;34(2 Pt 1):187-95.
    Pubmed CrossRef
  7. Butler PE, Gonzalez S, Randolph MA, Kim J, Kollias N, Yaremchuk MJ. Quantitative and qualitative effects of chemical peeling on photo-aged skin: an experimental study. Plast Reconstr Surg 2001;107:222-8.
    Pubmed CrossRef
  8. Yamamoto Y, Uede K, Yonei N, Kishioka A, Ohtani T, Furukawa F. Effects of alpha-hydroxy acids on the human skin of Japanese subjects: the rationale for chemical peeling. J Dermatol 2006;33:16-22.
    Pubmed CrossRef
  9. Newman N, Newman A, Moy LS, Babapour R, Harris AG, Moy RL. Clinical improvement of photoaged skin with 50% glycolic acid. A double-blind vehicle-controlled study. Dermatol Surg 1996;22:455-60.
    Pubmed CrossRef
  10. Kligman D, Kligman AM. Salicylic acid peels for the treatment of photoaging. Dermatol Surg 1998;24:325-8.
    Pubmed CrossRef
  11. Reed JT, Joseph AK, Bridenstine JB. Treatment of periorbital wrinkles. A comparison of the SilkTouch carbon dioxide laser with a medium-depth chemical peel. Dermatol Surg 1997; 23:643-8.
    Pubmed CrossRef
  12. Chew J, Gin I, Rau KA, Amos DB, Bridenstine JB. Treatment of upper lip wrinkles: a comparison of 950 microsec dwell time carbon dioxide laser with unoccluded Baker’s phenol chemical peel. Dermatol Surg 1999;25:262-6.
    Pubmed CrossRef
  13. Brown AM, Kaplan LM, Brown ME. Phenol-induced histological skin changes: hazards, technique, and uses. Br J Plast Surg 1960;13:158-69.
    Pubmed CrossRef
  14. Deprez P. Textbook of chemical peels: superficial, medium and deep peels in cosmetic practice. London: CRC Press; 2007.
    CrossRef
  15. Fartasch M, Teal J, Menon GK. Mode of action of glycolic acid on human stratum corneum: ultrastructural and functional evaluation of the epidermal barrier. Arch Dermatol Res 1997;289:404-9.
    Pubmed CrossRef
  16. Corcuff P, Fiat F, Minondo AM, Lévèque JL, Rougier A. A comparative ultrastructural study of hydroxyacids induced desquamation. Eur J Dermatol 2002;12:XXXIX-XLIII.
  17. Oresajo C, Yatskayer M, Hansenne I, Ast E. Clinical tolerance and efficacy of capryloyl salicylic acid (C8-LHA) peel compared to a glycolic acid peel in subjects with fine lines and wrinkles. J Am Acad Dermatol 2007;2 Suppl 2:AB27.
    CrossRef
  18. Clark E, Scerri L. Superficial and medium-depth chemical peels. Clin Dermatol 2008;26:209-18.
    Pubmed CrossRef
  19. Fischer TC, Perosino E, Poli F, Viera MS, Dreno B; Cosmetic Dermatology European Expert Group. Chemical peels in aesthetic dermatology: an update 2009. J Eur Acad Dermatol Venereol 2010;24:281-92.
    Pubmed CrossRef
  20. Lee CH, Lee KWA, Chan KW, Lee KFV, Lam KWP. Review of topical vitamins in photoaging skin. J Cosmet Med 2022;6:67-71.
    CrossRef
  21. Atiyeh BS, Abou Ghanem O, Chahine F. Microneedling: percutaneous collagen induction (PCI) therapy for management of scars and photoaged skin-scientific evidence and review of the literature. Aesthetic Plast Surg 2021;45:296-308.
    Pubmed CrossRef
  22. Pourang A, Tisack A, Ezekwe N, Torres AE, Kohli I, Hamzavi IH, et al. Effects of visible light on mechanisms of skin photoaging. Photodermatol Photoimmunol Photomed 2022;38:191-6.
    Pubmed CrossRef
  23. Bernstein EF, Andersen D, Zelickson BD. Laser resurfacing for dermal photoaging. Clin Plast Surg 2000;27:221-40.
    Pubmed CrossRef
  24. Karimipour DJ, Karimipour G, Orringer JS. Microdermabrasion: an evidence-based review. Plast Reconstr Surg 2010;125: 372-7.
    Pubmed CrossRef

Article

Review Article

J Cosmet Med 2023; 7(1): 1-5

Published online June 30, 2023 https://doi.org/10.25056/JCM.2023.7.1.1

Copyright © Korean Society of Korean Cosmetic Surgery & Medicine.

Review of chemical peeling in photoaging skin

Cheuk Hung Lee, MBBS (HK), FHKAM (MED), FHKCP, MScPD (Cardiff), MRCP (UK), DPD (Wales), DipDerm (Glasgow), PGDipClinDerm (London), MRCP (London), GradDipDerm (NUS), DipMed (CUHK)1 , Kar Wai Alvin Lee, MBChB (CUHK), DCH (Sydney), Dip Derm (Glasgow), MScClinDerm (Cardiff), MScPD (Cardiff), DipMed (CUHK), DCH (Sydney)1 , Lisa Kwin Wah Chan, MBChB (CUHK), MScPD (Cardiff), PgDipPD (Cardiff), PGDipClinDerm (Lond), DipMed (CUHK), DCH (Sydney)1 , Kar Fai Victor Lee, MBBS (UCL, University of London), MRCP (UK), FRCP (Glasgow), FHKCP, FHKAM (Medicine)2

1Ever Keen Medical Centre, Hong Kong
2London Heart Practice, Hong Kong

Correspondence to:Lisa Kwin Wah Chan
E-mail: lisa827@gmail.com

Received: February 10, 2023; Revised: March 16, 2023; Accepted: April 16, 2023

This is an Open Access article distributed under the terms of the Creative Commons Attribution Non-Commercial License (http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc/4.0), which permits unrestricted non-commercial use, distribution, and reproduction in any medium, provided the original work is properly cited.

Abstract

Photoaging is a process in which ultraviolet radiation damages the normal skin architecture. Topical chemical peeling is used to treat this condition. The authors aimed to understand the mechanism and level of evidence of the different depths of chemical peeling used to treat photoaging. Various topical chemical peelings have been used in cosmetic medicine for many years to treat photodamaged skin. This review compares the efficacy and the level of evidence. This systematic review evaluates the efficacy of different chemical peeling methods. Keywords included “Photoaging,” “Alpha-hydroxy acid,” “Lipo-hydroxy acid,” “Trichloroacetic acid,” “Jessner’s solution,” and “Phenol” were typed on Ovid, PubMed, MEDLINE for relevant studies published on photoaging treatment. There is a wealth of Level I evidence supporting the use of topical retinoic acid, vitamin B, and vitamin C. The evidence behind the use of topical vitamin E exists but is mainly drawn from studies from the Level IV of the evidence hierarchy. Topical vitamins can effectively treat photodamaged skin.

Keywords: hydroxy acids, lactic acid, phenol, salicylic acid, skin aging, trichloroacetic acid

Fig 1.

Figure 1.Evidence hierarchy according to Oxford Center for Evidence-Based Medicine [5]. RCT, randomized controlled trials; SR, systematic review.
Journal of Cosmetic Medicine 2023; 7: 1-5https://doi.org/10.25056/JCM.2023.7.1.1

References

  1. Weissler JM, Carney MJ, Carreras Tartak JA, Bensimon RH, Percec I. The evolution of chemical peeling and modern-day applications. Plast Reconstr Surg 2017;140:920-9.
    Pubmed CrossRef
  2. Borelli C, Ursin F, Steger F. The rise of chemical peeling in 19th-century European dermatology: emergence of agents, formulations and treatments. J Eur Acad Dermatol Venereol 2020;34:1890-9.
    Pubmed CrossRef
  3. Eller JJ, Wolff S. Skin peeling and scarification: in the treatment of pitted scars, pigmentations and certain facial blemishes. JAMA 1941;116:934-8.
    CrossRef
  4. Kligman AM, Baker TJ, Gordon HL. Long-term histologic follow-up of phenol face peels. Plast Reconstr Surg 1985;75:652-9.
    Pubmed CrossRef
  5. Centre for Evidence-Based Medicine. Oxford centre for evidence-based medicine: levels of evidence (March 2009) [Internet]. Oxford: University of Oxford; c2009 [cited 2023 Feb 5]. Available from: https://www.cebm.ox.ac.uk/resources/levelsof-evidence/oxford-centre-for-evidence-based-medicinelevels-of-evidence-march-2009
  6. Ditre CM, Griffin TD, Murphy GF, Sueki H, Telegan B, Johnson WC, et al. Effects of alpha-hydroxy acids on photoaged skin: a pilot clinical, histologic, and ultrastructural study. J Am Acad Dermatol 1996;34(2 Pt 1):187-95.
    Pubmed CrossRef
  7. Butler PE, Gonzalez S, Randolph MA, Kim J, Kollias N, Yaremchuk MJ. Quantitative and qualitative effects of chemical peeling on photo-aged skin: an experimental study. Plast Reconstr Surg 2001;107:222-8.
    Pubmed CrossRef
  8. Yamamoto Y, Uede K, Yonei N, Kishioka A, Ohtani T, Furukawa F. Effects of alpha-hydroxy acids on the human skin of Japanese subjects: the rationale for chemical peeling. J Dermatol 2006;33:16-22.
    Pubmed CrossRef
  9. Newman N, Newman A, Moy LS, Babapour R, Harris AG, Moy RL. Clinical improvement of photoaged skin with 50% glycolic acid. A double-blind vehicle-controlled study. Dermatol Surg 1996;22:455-60.
    Pubmed CrossRef
  10. Kligman D, Kligman AM. Salicylic acid peels for the treatment of photoaging. Dermatol Surg 1998;24:325-8.
    Pubmed CrossRef
  11. Reed JT, Joseph AK, Bridenstine JB. Treatment of periorbital wrinkles. A comparison of the SilkTouch carbon dioxide laser with a medium-depth chemical peel. Dermatol Surg 1997; 23:643-8.
    Pubmed CrossRef
  12. Chew J, Gin I, Rau KA, Amos DB, Bridenstine JB. Treatment of upper lip wrinkles: a comparison of 950 microsec dwell time carbon dioxide laser with unoccluded Baker’s phenol chemical peel. Dermatol Surg 1999;25:262-6.
    Pubmed CrossRef
  13. Brown AM, Kaplan LM, Brown ME. Phenol-induced histological skin changes: hazards, technique, and uses. Br J Plast Surg 1960;13:158-69.
    Pubmed CrossRef
  14. Deprez P. Textbook of chemical peels: superficial, medium and deep peels in cosmetic practice. London: CRC Press; 2007.
    CrossRef
  15. Fartasch M, Teal J, Menon GK. Mode of action of glycolic acid on human stratum corneum: ultrastructural and functional evaluation of the epidermal barrier. Arch Dermatol Res 1997;289:404-9.
    Pubmed CrossRef
  16. Corcuff P, Fiat F, Minondo AM, Lévèque JL, Rougier A. A comparative ultrastructural study of hydroxyacids induced desquamation. Eur J Dermatol 2002;12:XXXIX-XLIII.
  17. Oresajo C, Yatskayer M, Hansenne I, Ast E. Clinical tolerance and efficacy of capryloyl salicylic acid (C8-LHA) peel compared to a glycolic acid peel in subjects with fine lines and wrinkles. J Am Acad Dermatol 2007;2 Suppl 2:AB27.
    CrossRef
  18. Clark E, Scerri L. Superficial and medium-depth chemical peels. Clin Dermatol 2008;26:209-18.
    Pubmed CrossRef
  19. Fischer TC, Perosino E, Poli F, Viera MS, Dreno B; Cosmetic Dermatology European Expert Group. Chemical peels in aesthetic dermatology: an update 2009. J Eur Acad Dermatol Venereol 2010;24:281-92.
    Pubmed CrossRef
  20. Lee CH, Lee KWA, Chan KW, Lee KFV, Lam KWP. Review of topical vitamins in photoaging skin. J Cosmet Med 2022;6:67-71.
    CrossRef
  21. Atiyeh BS, Abou Ghanem O, Chahine F. Microneedling: percutaneous collagen induction (PCI) therapy for management of scars and photoaged skin-scientific evidence and review of the literature. Aesthetic Plast Surg 2021;45:296-308.
    Pubmed CrossRef
  22. Pourang A, Tisack A, Ezekwe N, Torres AE, Kohli I, Hamzavi IH, et al. Effects of visible light on mechanisms of skin photoaging. Photodermatol Photoimmunol Photomed 2022;38:191-6.
    Pubmed CrossRef
  23. Bernstein EF, Andersen D, Zelickson BD. Laser resurfacing for dermal photoaging. Clin Plast Surg 2000;27:221-40.
    Pubmed CrossRef
  24. Karimipour DJ, Karimipour G, Orringer JS. Microdermabrasion: an evidence-based review. Plast Reconstr Surg 2010;125: 372-7.
    Pubmed CrossRef

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